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A
mile or two above Eberbach we saw a peculiar ruin projecting
above the foliage which clothed the peak of a high and very steep hill.
This ruin consisted of merely a couple of crumbling masses of masonry
which bore a rude resemblance to human faces; they
leaned forward and touched foreheads, and had the look of being absorbed
in conversation. This ruin had nothing very imposing or picturesque
about it, and there was no great deal of it, yet it was called the "Spectacular
Ruin."
LEGEND
OF THE "SPECTACULAR RUIN"
The
captain of the raft, who was as full of history as he could stick, said
that in the Middle Ages a most prodigious fire-breathing dragon used
to live in that region, and made more trouble than a tax-collector.
He was as long as a railway-train, and had the customary impenetrable
green scales all over him. His breath bred pestilence and conflagration,
and his appetite bred famine. He ate men and cattle impartially, and
was exceedingly unpopular. The German emperor of that day made the usual
offer: he would grant to the destroyer of the dragon, any one solitary
thing he might ask for; for he had a surplusage of daughters, and it
was customary for dragon-killers to take a daughter for pay.
So the most renowned
knights came from the four corners of the earth and retired down the
dragon's throat one after the other. A panic arose and spread. Heroes
grew cautious. The procession ceased. The dragon became more destructive
than ever. The people lost all hope of succor, and fled to the mountains
for refuge.
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Eberbach
 Eberbach.
human faces 
 Der
Burghof von Stolzeneck (Detail).
"Spectacular
Ruin" 
 Stolzeneck.
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At
last Sir Wissenschaft, a poor and obscure knight, out
of a far country, arrived to do battle with the monster. A pitiable
object he was, with his armor hanging in rags about him, and his strange-shaped
knapsack strapped upon his back. Everybody turned up their noses at
him, and some openly jeered him. But he was calm. He simply inquired
if the emperor's offer was still in force. The emperor said it was —
but charitably advised him to go and hunt hares and not endanger so
precious a life as his in an attempt which had brought death to so many
of the world's most illustrious heroes.
But this tramp
only asked — "Were any of these heroes men of science?"
This raised a laugh, of course, for science was despised in those days.
But the tramp was not in the least ruffled. He said he might be a little
in advance of his age, but no matter — science would come to be
honored, some time or other. He said he would march against the dragon
in the morning. Out of compassion, then, a decent spear was offered
him, but he declined, and said, "spears were useless to men of
science." They allowed him to sup in the servants' hall, and gave
him a bed in the stables.
When he started
forth in the morning, thousands were gathered to see. The emperor said:
"Do not
be rash, take a spear, and leave off your knapsack."
But the tramp
said:
"It is not
a knapsack," and moved straight on.
The dragon was
waiting and ready. He was breathing forth vast volumes of sulphurous
smoke and lurid blasts of flame. The ragged knight stole warily to a
good position, then he unslung his cylindrical knapsack — which
was simply the common fire-extinguisher known to modern times —
and the first chance he got he turned on his hose and shot the dragon
square in the center of his cavernous mouth. Out went the fires in an
instant, and the dragon curled up and died.
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Sir
Wissenschaft 
 Illustration:
THE UNKNOWN KNIGHT.
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This
man had brought brains to his aid. He had reared dragons from the egg,
in his laboratory, he had watched over them like a mother, and patiently
studied them and experimented upon them while they grew. Thus he had found
out that fire was the life principle of a dragon; put out the dragon's
fires and it could make steam no longer, and must die. He could not put
out a fire with a spear, therefore he invented the extinguisher. The dragon
being dead, the emperor fell on the hero's neck and said:
"Deliverer,
name your request," at the same time beckoning out behind with his
heel for a detachment of his daughters to form and advance. But the tramp
gave them no observance. He simply said:
"My request
is, that upon me be conferred the monopoly of the manufacture and sale
of spectacles in Germany."
The emperor sprang
aside and exclaimed:
"This transcends
all the impudence I ever heard! A modest demand, by my halidome! Why didn't
you ask for the imperial revenues at once, and be done with it?"
But the monarch
had given his word, and he kept it. To everybody's surprise, the unselfish
monopolist immediately reduced the price of spectacles to such a degree
that a great and crushing burden was removed from the nation. The emperor,
to commemorate this generous act, and to testify his appreciation of it,
issued a decree commanding everybody to buy this benefactor's spectacles
and wear them, whether they needed them or not. |
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the
emporer fell on the hero's neck
 Illustration:
THE EMBRACE. |
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So
originated the wide-spread custom of wearing spectacles in Germany; and
as a custom once established in these old lands is imperishable, this
one remains universal in the empire to this day. Such is the legend of
the monopolist's once stately and sumptuous castle, now called the "Spectacular
Ruin."
On the right bank,
two or three miles below the Spectacular Ruin, we passed by a
noble pile of castellated buildings overlooking the water from
the crest of a lofty elevation. A stretch of two hundred yards of the
high front wall was heavily draped with ivy, and out of the mass of buildings
within rose three picturesque old towers. The place was in fine order,
and was inhabited by a family of princely rank. This castle had its legend,
too, but I should not feel justified in repeating it because I doubted
the truth of some of its minor details. |
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a
noble pile of castellated buildings
 Schloss
Zwingenberg.
 Neckarfloss
bei Zwingenberg. |
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Along
in this region a multitude of Italian laborers were blasting away the
frontage of the hills to make room for the new railway.
They were fifty or a hundred feet above the river. As we turned a sharp
corner they began to wave signals and shout warnings to us to look out
for the explosions. It was all very well to warn us, but what could we
do? You can't back a raft upstream, you can't hurry it downstream, you
can't scatter out to one side when you haven't any room to speak of, you
won't take to the perpendicular cliffs on the other shore when they appear
to be blasting there, too. Your resources are limited, you see. There
is simply nothing for it but to watch and pray. |
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For
some hours we had been making three and a half or four miles an hour
and we were still making that. We had been dancing right along until
those men began to shout; then for the next ten minutes it seemed to
me that I had never seen a raft go so slowly. When the first
blast went off we raised our sun-umbrellas and waited for the
result. No harm done; none of the stones fell in the water. Another
blast followed, and another and another. Some of the rubbish fell in
the water just astern of us.
We ran that whole
battery of nine blasts in a row, and it was certainly one of the most
exciting and uncomfortable weeks I ever spent, either aship or ashore.
Of course we frequently manned the poles and shoved earnestly for a
second or so, but every time one of those spurts of dust and debris
shot aloft every man dropped his pole and looked up to get the bearings
of his share of it. It was very busy times along there for a while.
It appeared certain that we must perish, but even that was not the bitterest
thought; no, the abjectly unheroic nature of the death — that
was the sting — that and the bizarre wording of the resulting
obituary: "Shot with a rock on a raft." There would
be no poetry written about it. None could be written about
it. Example:
Not
by war's shock, or war's shaft —
Shot,
with a rock, on a raft
No poet who valued
his reputation would touch such a theme as that. I should be distinguished
as the only "distinguished dead" who went down to the grave
unsonneted, in 1878.
But we escaped,
and I have never regretted it. The last blast was peculiarly strong
one, and after the small rubbish was done raining around us and we were
just going to shake hands over our deliverance, a later and larger stone
came down amongst our little group of pedestrians and wrecked an umbrella.
It did no other harm, but we took to the water just the same.
It seems that
the heavy work in the quarries and the new railway gradings is done
mainly by Italians. That was a revelation. We have the notion in our
country that Italians never do heavy work at all, but confine themselves
to the lighter arts, like organ-grinding, operatic singing, and assassination.
We have blundered, that is plain.
All along the
river, near every village, we saw little station-houses for the future
railway. They were finished and waiting for the rails and business.
They were as trim and snug and pretty as they could be. They were always
of brick or stone; they were of graceful shape, they had vines and flowers
about them already, and around them the grass was bright and green,
and showed that it was carefully looked after. They were a decoration
to the beautiful landscape, not an offense. Wherever one saw a pile
of gravel or a pile of broken stone, it was always heaped as trimly
and exactly as a new grave or a stack of cannon-balls; nothing about
those stations or along the railroad or the wagon-road was allowed to
look shabby or be unornamental. The keeping a country in such beautiful
order as Germany exhibits, has a wise practical side to it, too, for
it keeps thousands of people in work and bread who would otherwise be
idle and mischievous.
As the night
shut down, the captain wanted to tie up, but I thought maybe we might
make Hirschhorn, so we went on. Presently the sky became overcast, and
the captain came aft looking uneasy. He cast his eye aloft, then shook
his head, and said it was coming on to blow. My party wanted to land
at once — therefore I wanted to go on. The captain said we ought
to shorten sail anyway, out of common prudence. Consequently, the larboard
watch was ordered to lay in his pole. It grew quite dark, now, and the
wind began to rise. It wailed through the swaying branches of the trees,
and swept our decks in fitful gusts. Things were taking on an ugly look.
The captain shouted to the steersman on the forward log:
"How's she
landing?"
The answer came
faint and hoarse from far forward:
"Nor'-east-and-by-nor'
— east-by-east, half-east, sir."
"Let
her go off a point!"
"Aye-aye,
sir!"
"What water
have you got?"
"Shoal,
sir. Two foot large, on the stabboard, two and a half scant on the labboard!"
"Let her
go off another point!"
"Aye-aye,
sir!"
"Forward,
men, all of you! Lively, now! Stand by to crowd her round the weather
corner!"
"Aye-aye,
sir!"
Then followed
a wild running and trampling and hoarse shouting, but the forms of the
men were lost in the darkness and the sounds were distorted and confused
by the roaring of the wind through the shingle-bundles. By this time
the sea was running inches high, and threatening every moment to engulf
the frail bark. Now came the mate, hurrying aft, and said, close to
the captain's ear, in a low, agitated voice:
"Prepare
for the worst, sir — we have sprung a leak!"
"Heavens!
where?"
"Right aft
the second row of logs."
"Nothing
but a miracle can save us! Don't let the men know, or there will be
a panic and mutiny! Lay her in shore and stand by to jump with the stern-line
the moment she touches. Gentlemen, I must look to you to second my endeavors
in this hour of peril. You have hats — go forward and bail for
your lives!"
Down swept another
mighty blast of wind, clothed in spray and thick darkness. At such a
moment as this, came from away forward that most appalling of all cries
that are ever heard at sea:
"Man
overboard!"
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the
first blast
 Illustration:
PERILOUS POSITION. |
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The
captain shouted:
"Hard a-port!
Never mind the man! Let him climb aboard or wade ashore!"
Another cry came
down the wind:
"Breakers
ahead!"
"Where away?"
"Not a log's
length off her port fore-foot!"
We had groped our
slippery way forward, and were now bailing with the frenzy of despair,
when we heard the mate's terrified cry, from far aft:
"Stop that
dashed bailing, or we shall be aground!"
But this was immediately
followed by the glad shout:
"Land aboard
the starboard transom!"
"Saved!"
cried the captain. "Jump ashore and take a turn around a tree and
pass the bight aboard!" |
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The
captain shouted
 Illustration:
THE RAFT IN A STORM. |
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The
next moment we were all on shore weeping and embracing for joy,
while the rain poured down in torrents. The captain said he had been a
mariner for forty years on the Neckar, and in that time had seen storms
to make a man's cheek blanch and his pulses stop, but he had never, never
seen a storm that even approached this one. How familiar that sounded!
For I have been at sea a good deal and have heard that remark from captains
with a frequency accordingly.
We framed in our
minds the usual resolution of thanks and admiration and gratitude, and
took the first opportunity to vote it, and put it in writing and present
it to the captain, with the customary speech. We tramped through the darkness
and the drenching summer rain full three miles, and reached "The
Naturalist Tavern" in the village of Hirschhorn just an hour before
midnight, almost exhausted from hardship, fatigue, and terror. I can never
forget that night.
The landlord was
rich, and therefore could afford to be crusty and disobliging; he did
not at all like being turned out of his warm bed to open his house for
us. But no matter, his household got up and cooked a quick supper for
us, and we brewed a hot punch for ourselves, to keep off consumption.
After supper and punch we had an hour's soothing smoke while we fought
the naval battle over again and voted the resolutions; then we retired
to exceedingly neat and pretty chambers upstairs that had clean, comfortable
beds in them with heirloom pillowcases most elaborately and tastefully
embroidered by hand.
Such rooms and
beds and embroidered linen are as frequent in German village inns as they
are rare in ours. Our villages are superior to German villages in more
merits, excellences, conveniences, and privileges than I can enumerate,
but the hotels do not belong in the list.
"The Naturalist
Tavern" was not a meaningless name; for all the halls and all the
rooms were lined with large glass cases which were filled with all sorts
of birds and animals, glass-eyed, ably stuffed, and set up in the most
natural eloquent and dramatic attitudes. The moment we were abed, the
rain cleared away and the moon came out. I dozed off to sleep while contemplating
a great white stuffed owl which was looking intently down on me from a
high perch with the air of a person who thought he had met me before,
but could not make out for certain. |
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weeping
and embracing for joy
 Illustration:
ALL SAFE ON SHORE. |
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But
young Z did not get off so easily. He said that as he was sinking deliciously
to sleep, the moon lifted away the shadows and developed a huge
cat, on a bracket, dead and stuffed, but crouching, with every
muscle tense, for a spring, and with its glittering glass eyes aimed straight
at him. It made Z uncomfortable. He tried closing his own eyes, but that
did not answer, for a natural instinct kept making him open them again
to see if the cat was still getting ready to launch at him — which
she always was. He tried turning his back, but that was a failure; he
knew the sinister eyes were on him still. So at last
he had to get up, after an hour or two of worry and experiment, and set
the cat out in the hall. So he won, that time. |
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a
huge cat
 Illustration:
IT WAS THE CAT.
at
last 
 Illustration:
(untitled tailpiece) |
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