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However,
I wander from the raft. We made the port of Necharsteinach
in good season, and went to the hotel and ordered a trout dinner, the
same to be ready against our return from a two-hour pedestrian excursion
to the village and castle of Dilsberg, a mile distant, on the other side
of the river. I do not mean that we proposed to be two hours making two
miles — no, we meant to employ most of the time in inspecting Dilsberg.
For Dilsberg
is a quaint place. It is most quaintly and picturesquely situated, too.
Imagine the beautiful river before you; then a few rods of brilliant green
sward on its opposite shore; then a sudden hill — no preparatory
gently rising slopes, but a sort of instantaneous hill — a hill
two hundred and fifty or three hundred feet high, as round as a bowl,
with the same taper upward that an inverted bowl has, and with about the
same relation of height to diameter that distinguishes a bowl of good
honest depth — a hill which is thickly clothed with green bushes
— a comely, shapely hill, rising abruptly out of the dead level
of the surrounding green plains, visible from a great distance down the
bends of the river, and with just exactly room on the top of its head
for its steepled and turreted and roof-clustered cap of architecture,
which same is tightly jammed and compacted within the perfectly round
hoop of the ancient village wall. |
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Neckarsteinach
Die
Vier Burgen zu Neckarsteinach. (1891)
Dilsberg
Der
Dilsberg von Neckargemünd aus. (1891)
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There
is no house outside the wall on the whole hill, or any vestige of a
former house; all the houses are inside the wall, but there isn't room
for another one. It is really a finished town, and has been finished
a very long time. There is no space between the wall and the
first circle of buildings; no, the village wall is itself the rear wall
of the first circle of buildings, and the roofs jut a little over the
wall and thus furnish it with eaves. The general level of the massed
roofs is gracefully broken and relieved by the dominating towers of
the ruined castle and the tall spires of a couple of
churches; so, from a distance Dilsberg has rather more the look of a
king's crown than a cap. That lofty green eminence and its quaint coronet
form quite a striking picture, you may be sure, in the flush of the
evening sun.
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the
wall and th...
Illustration:
THE TOWN OF DILSBERG.
ruined
castle
Die
obere Burg vom Burgweg aus.
(1891) |
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We
crossed over in a boat and began the ascent by a narrow, steep path which
plunged us at once into the leafy deeps of the bushes. But they were not
cool deeps by any means, for the sun's rays were weltering hot and there
was little or no breeze to temper them. As we panted up the sharp
ascent, we met brown, bareheaded and barefooted boys and girls,
occasionally, and sometimes men; they came upon us without warning, they
gave us good day, flashed out of sight in the bushes, and were gone as
suddenly and mysteriously as they had come. They were bound for the other
side of the river to work. This path had been traveled by many generations
of these people. They have always gone down to the valley to earn their
bread, but they have always climbed their hill again to eat it, and to
sleep in their snug town.
It is said that
the Dilsbergers do not emigrate much; they find that living up there above
the world, in their peaceful nest, is pleasanter than living down in the
troublous world. The seven hundred inhabitants are all blood-kin to each
other, too; they have always been blood-kin to each other for fifteen
hundred years; they are simply one large family, and they like the home
folks better than they like strangers, hence they persistently stay at
home. It has been said that for ages Dilsberg has been merely a thriving
and diligent idiot-factory. I saw no idiots there, but the captain said,
"Because of late years the government has taken to lugging them off
to asylums and otherwheres; and government wants to cripple the factory,
too, and is trying to get these Dilsbergers to marry out of the family,
but they don't like to."
The captain probably
imagined all this, as modern science denies that the intermarrying of
relatives deteriorates the stock. |
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up
the sharp ascent
Illustration:
OUR ADVANCE. |
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Arrived
within the wall, we found the usual village sights and life. We moved
along a narrow, crooked lane which had been paved in
the Middle Ages. A strapping, ruddy girl was beating flax or some such
stuff in a little bit of a good-box of a barn, and she swung her flail
with a will — if it was a flail; I was not farmer enough to know
what she was at; a frowsy, barelegged girl was herding half a dozen geese
with a stick — driving them along the lane and keeping them out
of the dwellings; a cooper was at work in a shop which I know he did not
make so large a thing as a hogshead in, for there was not room. In the
front rooms of dwellings girls and women were cooking or spinning, and
ducks and chickens were waddling in and out, over the threshold, picking
up chance crumbs and holding pleasant converse; a very old and wrinkled
man sat asleep before his door, with his chin upon his breast and his
extinguished pipe in his lap; soiled children were playing in the dirt
everywhere along the lane, unmindful of the sun.
Except the sleeping
old man, everybody was at work, but the place was very still and peaceful,
nevertheless; so still that the distant cackle of the successful hen smote
upon the ear but little dulled by intervening sounds. That commonest of
village sights was lacking here — the public pump, with its great
stone tank or trough of limpid water, and its group of gossiping pitcher-bearers;
for there is no well or fountain or spring on this tall hill; cisterns
of rain-water are used.
Our alpenstocks
and muslin tails compelled attention, and as we moved through the village
we gathered a considerable procession of little boys and girls, and so
went in some state to the castle. It proved to be an
extensive pile of crumbling walls, arches, and towers, massive, properly
grouped for picturesque effect, weedy, grass-grown, and satisfactory.
The children acted as guides; they walked us along the top of the highest
walls, then took us up into a high tower and showed us a wide and beautiful
landscape, made up of wavy distances of woody hills, and a nearer prospect
of undulating expanses of green lowlands, on the one hand, and castle-graced
crags and ridges on the other, with the shining curves of the Neckar flowing
between. But the principal show, the chief pride of the children, was
the ancient and empty well in the grass-grown court of the castle. Its
massive stone curb stands up three or four feet above-ground, and is whole
and uninjured. The children said that in the Middle Ages this well was
four hundred feet deep, and furnished all the village with an abundant
supply of water, in war and peace. They said that in the old day its bottom
was below the level of the Neckar, hence the water-supply was inexhaustible.
But there were
some who believed it had never been a well at all, and was never deeper
than it is now — eighty feet; that at that depth a subterranean
passage branched from it and descended gradually to a remote place in
the valley, where it opened into somebody's cellar or other hidden recess,
and that the secret of this locality is now lost. Those who hold this
belief say that herein lies the explanation that Dilsberg, besieged by
Tilly and many a soldier before him, was never taken: after the longest
and closest sieges the besiegers were astonished to perceive that the
besieged were as fat and hearty as ever, and were well furnished with
munitions of war — therefore it must be that the Dilsbergers had
been bringing these things in through the subterranean passage all the
time. |
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a
narrow, crooked lane
Illustration:
INSIDE THE TOWN.
to
the castle
Lageplan
der Burg. (1891) |
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The
children said that there was in truth a subterranean outlet down there,
and they would prove it. So they set a great truss of straw on fire
and threw it down the well, while we leaned on the
curb and watched the glowing mass descend. It struck bottom and gradually
burned out. No smoke came up. The children clapped their hands and said:
"You see!
Nothing makes so much smoke as burning straw — now where did the
smoke go to, if there is no subterranean outlet?"
So it seemed
quite evident that the subterranean outlet indeed existed. But the finest
thing within the ruin's limits was a noble linden, which the children
said was four hundred years old, and no doubt it was. It had a mighty
trunk and a mighty spread of limb and foliage. The limbs near the ground
were nearly the thickness of a barrel.
That tree had
witnessed the assaults of men in mail — how remote such a time
seems, and how ungraspable is the fact that real men ever did fight
in real armor! — and it had seen the time when these broken arches
and crumbling battlements were a trim and strong and stately fortress,
fluttering its gay banners in the sun, and peopled with vigorous humanity
— how impossibly long ago that seems! — and here it stands
yet, and possibly may still be standing here, sunning itself and dreaming
its historical dreams, when today shall have been joined to the days
called "ancient."
Well, we sat
down under the tree to smoke, and the captain delivered himself of his
legend:
THE
LEGEND OF DILSBERG CASTLE
It
was to this effect. In the old times there was once a great company
assembled at the castle, and festivity ran high. Of course there was
a haunted chamber in the castle, and one day the talk fell upon that.
It was said that whoever slept in it would not wake again for fifty
years. Now when a young knight named Conrad von Geisberg heard this,
he said that if the castle were his he would destroy that chamber, so
that no foolish person might have the chance to bring so dreadful a
misfortune upon himself and afflict such as loved him with the memory
of it. Straightway, the company privately laid their heads together
to contrive some way to get this superstitious young man to sleep in
that chamber.
And they succeeded
— in this way. They persuaded his betrothed, a lovely mischievous
young creature, niece of the lord of the castle, to help them in their
plot. She presently took him aside and had speech with him. She used
all her persuasions, but could not shake him; he said his belief was
firm, that if he should sleep there he would wake no more for fifty
years, and it made him shudder to think of it. Catharina began to weep.
This was a better argument; Conrad could not out against it. He yielded
and said she should have her wish if she would only smile and be happy
again. She flung her arms about his neck, and the kisses she gave him
showed that her thankfulness and her pleasure were very real. Then she
flew to tell the company her success, and the applause she received
made her glad and proud she had undertaken her mission, since all alone
she had accomplished what the multitude had failed in.
At midnight,
that night, after the usual feasting, Conrad was taken to the haunted
chamber and left there. He fell asleep, by and by.
When he awoke
again and looked about him, his heart stood still with horror! The whole
aspect of the chamber was changed. The walls were moldy and hung with
ancient cobwebs; the curtains and beddings were rotten; the furniture
was rickety and ready to fall to pieces. He sprang out of bed, but his
quaking knees sunk under him and he fell to the floor.
"This is
the weakness of age," he said.
He rose and sought
his clothing. It was clothing no longer. The colors were gone, the garments
gave way in many places while he was putting them on. He fled, shuddering,
into the corridor, and along it to the great hall. Here he was met by
a middle-aged stranger of a kind countenance, who stopped and gazed
at him with surprise. Conrad said:
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down
the well
Illustration:
THE OLD WELL.
Die
obere Burg vom Burgweg aus.
(Detail:
Brunnen) |
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"Good
sir, will you send hither the lord Ulrich?"
The stranger
looked puzzled a moment, then said:
"The lord
Ulrich?"
"Yes —
if you will be so good."
The stranger
called — "Wilhelm!" A young serving-man came, and the
stranger said to him:
"Is there
a lord Ulrich among the guests?"
"I know
none of the name, so please your honor."
Conrad said,
hesitatingly:
"I did not
mean a guest, but the lord of the castle, sir."
The stranger
and the servant exchanged wondering glances. Then the former said:
"I am the
lord of the castle."
"Since when,
sir?"
"Since the
death of my father, the good lord Ulrich more than forty years ago."
Conrad sank upon
a bench and covered his face with his hands while he rocked his body
to and fro and moaned. The stranger said in a low voice to the servant:
"I fear
me this poor old creature is mad. Call some one."
In a moment several
people came, and grouped themselves about, talking in whispers. Conrad
looked up and scanned the faces about him wistfully.
Then he shook
his head and said, in a grieved voice:
"No, there
is none among ye that I know. I am old and alone in the world. They
are dead and gone these many years that cared for me. But sure, some
of these aged ones I see about me can tell me some little word or two
concerning them."
Several bent
and tottering men and women came nearer and answered his questions about
each former friend as he mentioned the names. This one they said had
been dead ten years, that one twenty, another thirty. Each succeeding
blow struck heavier and heavier. At last the sufferer said:
"There is
one more, but I have not the courage to — O my lost Catharina!"
One of the old
dames said:
"Ah, I knew
her well, poor soul. A misfortune overtook her lover, and she died of
sorrow nearly fifty years ago. She lieth under the linden tree without
the court."
Conrad bowed
his head and said:
"Ah, why
did I ever wake! And so she died of grief for me, poor child. So young,
so sweet, so good! She never wittingly did a hurtful thing in all the
little summer of her life. Her loving debt shall be repaid — for
I will die of grief for her."
His head drooped
upon his breast. In the moment there was a wild burst of joyous laughter,
a pair of round young arms were flung about Conrad's neck and a sweet
voice cried:
"There,
Conrad mine, thy kind words kill me — the farce shall go no further!
Look up, and laugh with us — 'twas all a jest!"
And he did look
up, and gazed, in a dazed wonderment — for the disguises were
stripped away, and the aged men and women were bright and young and
gay again. Catharina's happy tongue ran on:
"'Twas a
marvelous jest, and bravely carried out. They gave you a heavy sleeping-draught
before you went to bed, and in the night they bore you to a ruined chamber
where all had fallen to decay, and placed these rags of clothing by
you. And when your sleep was spent and you came forth, two strangers,
well instructed in their parts, were here to meet you; and all we, your
friends, in our disguises, were close at hand, to see and hear, you
may be sure. Ah, 'twas a gallant jest! Come, now, and make thee ready
for the pleasures of the day. How real was thy misery for the moment,
thou poor lad! Look up and have thy laugh, now!"
He looked up,
searched the merry faces about him in a dreamy way, then sighed and
said:
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send
hither the lord Ulrich
Illustration:
"SEND
HITHER THE LORD ULRICH." |
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"I
am aweary, good strangers, I pray you lead me to her grave."
All the smile vanished
away, every cheek blanched, Catharina sunk to the ground in a swoon.
All day the people
went about the castle with troubled faces, and communed together in undertones.
A painful hush pervaded the place which had lately been so full of cheery
life. Each in his turn tried to arouse Conrad out of his hallucination
and bring him to himself; but all the answer any got was a meek, bewildered
stare, and then the words:
"Good stranger,
I have no friends, all are at rest these many years; ye speak me fair,
ye mean me well, but I know ye not; I am alone and forlorn in the world
— prithee lead me to her grave."
During two years
Conrad spent his days, from the early morning till the night, under the
linden tree, mourning over the imaginary grave of his Catharina. Catharina
was the only company of the harmless madman. He was very friendly toward
her because, as he said, in some ways she reminded him of his Catharina
whom he had lost "fifty years ago." He often said:
"She was so
gay, so happy-hearted — but you never smile; and always when you
think I am not looking, you cry."
When Conrad died,
they buried him under the linden, according to his directions, so that
he might rest "near his poor Catharina." Then Catharina sat
under the linden alone, every day and all day long, a great many years,
speaking to no one, and never smiling; and at last her long repentance
was rewarded with death, and she was buried by Conrad's side.
Harris pleased
the captain by saying it was a good legend; and pleased him further by
adding:
"Now that
I have seen this mighty tree, vigorous with its four hundred years, I
feel a desire to believe the legend for its sake; so I will humor
the desire, and consider that the tree really watches over those poor
hearts and feels a sort of human tenderness for them."
We
returned to Necharsteinach, plunged our hot heads into the trough at the
town pump, and then went to the hotel and ate our trout dinner in leisurely
comfort, in the garden, with the beautiful Neckar flowing at our feet,
the quaint Dilsberg looming beyond, and the graceful
towers and battlements of a couple of medieval castles (called the "Swallow's
Nest"
and "The Brothers.") assisting the rugged scenery of a bend
of the river down to our right. We got to sea in season to make the eight-mile
run to Heidelberg before the night shut down. We sailed by the hotel in
the mellow glow of sunset, and came slashing down with the mad current
into the narrow passage between the dikes. I believed I could shoot the
bridge myself, and I went to the forward triplet of logs and relieved
the pilot of his pole and his responsibility. |
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lead
me to her grave
Illustration:
"LEAD ME TO HER GRAVE."
the
quaint Dilsberg looming beyond
Dilsberg
vom Neckarfloss bei Rainbach
a couple of medieval castles
Die Burgen von Neckarsteinach.
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We
went tearing along in a most exhilarating way, and I performed the delicate
duties of my office very well indeed for a first attempt;
but perceiving, presently, that I really was going to shoot the bridge
itself instead of the archway under it, I judiciously stepped ashore.
The next moment I had my long-coveted desire: I saw a raft wrecked. It
hit the pier in the center and went all to smash and scatteration
like a box of matches struck by lightning.
I
was the only one of our party who saw this grand sight; the others were
attitudinizing, for the benefit of the long rank of young ladies who were
promenading on the bank, and so they lost it. But I helped to
fish them out of the river, down below the bridge, and then described
it to them as well as I could.
They
were not interested, though. They said they were wet and felt ridiculous
and did not care anything for descriptions of scenery. The young ladies,
and other people, crowded around and showed a great deal of sympathy,
but that did not help matters; for my friends said they did not want sympathy,
they wanted a back alley and solitude.
The seeker after information is referred to Appendix E for our captain's
legend of the "Swallow's Nest" and "The Brothers." |
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very
well indeed
Illustration:
AN EXCELLENT PILOT —
ONCE!
scatteration
Illustration:
SCATTERATION.
I
helped to fish them out
Illustration:
RIVERBATH.
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